Mongolia Bikepacking – gear review

Before the trip I spent a lot of time researching what gear I should bring and considering how well everything worked out I think that was time well spent. I didn’t bring much that I didn’t need or use. I could have left a few items behind but overall, and especially considering we were unsure […]

Fitzgerald repeats Wonderland 8b and Soul Revolution 8B+ on the same day

Almost three years to the day after Michael Duffy did the first ascent of Ireland’s hardest problem, Soul Revolution 8b+ in Glenmalure, it has been repeated, for the first time, by David Fitzgerald. Amazingly he also did the second ascent of the neo-classic Wonderland 8b in Glendalough on the same day. Fitzgerald, a 22 year old […]

Fontainebleau: Survival Guide

I’ve been to Fontainebleau once or twice a year for the last dozen or so years, usually in early or late winter. Each year the trip, even though much anticipated, seems to come around very quick and I haven’t done as much training as I would like. Having never been much of a wad I’ve […]

Loop Head, Clare – new bouldering area

Richard Creagh has found some new bouldering on the sandstone boulders of Loop Head in County Clare. These boulders are just east of George’s Head near Kilkee. Park at the East End near Byrne’s Cove and walk east and down to the obvious platform between George’s Head and Lackglass. There are some easier scrappy bits  […]

Update on access to Dún Séanna Head, Kerry

I got the following update from the Mountaineering Ireland access officer about access to the climbing at Dún Séanna Head, Dingle, Kerry. The sandstone cliffs of Dunshean Head, just east of Dingle are attracting an increased number of climbers. Patrick Farrell, the new landowner at Dunshean has requested that people planning to climb there text […]

First Ascents – reposting old article from 2008

Photo by Jeff Gardner. We are lucky in Ireland to have so few climbers and so much mountainside and coastline to explore looking for unclimbed rock. There are first ascents for anyone prepared to put in a little work. It’s even possible to scramble about in the scree in Glendo, the most popular bouldering area […]

New Ricky Bell 8b in Fair Head

Ricky Bell has done the second ascent of Dan Varian’s problem Glenn Ross 8a+/b at Fair Head (see some background to Dan’s FA) and he also got his project done, The Gentleman’s Arete 8B, also at the Head. Ricky has done plenty of other new problem check out his blog for details.

Fatbiking the Wicklow coast

In the eighties mountain bikes were known as ‘all terrain bikes’, a term that lives on today in the French for mountain bike – velo tout terrain. But in recent years the concept of a bike that could go anywhere has fallen by the wayside, mountain biking has become increasingly specialised, and the bikes have […]