Update on access to Dún Séanna Head, Kerry

I got the following update from the Mountaineering Ireland access officer about access to the climbing at Dún Séanna Head, Dingle, Kerry. The sandstone cliffs of Dunshean Head, just east of Dingle are attracting an increased number of climbers. Patrick Farrell, the new landowner at Dunshean has requested that people planning to climb there text […]

First Ascents – reposting old article from 2008

Photo by Jeff Gardner. We are lucky in Ireland to have so few climbers and so much mountainside and coastline to explore looking for unclimbed rock. There are first ascents for anyone prepared to put in a little work. It’s even possible to scramble about in the scree in Glendo, the most popular bouldering area […]

New Ricky Bell 8b in Fair Head

Ricky Bell has done the second ascent of Dan Varian’s problem Glenn Ross 8a+/b at Fair Head (see some background to Dan’s FA) and he also got his project done, The Gentleman’s Arete 8B, also at the Head. Ricky has done plenty of other new problem check out his blog for details.

Fatbiking the Wicklow coast

In the eighties mountain bikes were known as ‘all terrain bikes’, a term that lives on today in the French for mountain bike – velo tout terrain. But in recent years the concept of a bike that could go anywhere has fallen by the wayside, mountain biking has become increasingly specialised, and the bikes have […]

Hiking the Bangor Trail

If you glance at a road map of Ireland you will notice that in the north west, just above Westport, there is a large blank area. The central part of which is the Nephin Beg Mountain range. The Nephins are a wild and empty place surrounded by blanket bog, riddled with small streams and lakes […]

More Exploring

Went down to Wicklow today to check out some boulders that I had found on Bing Maps. Didn’t have very high hopes but the weather was pretty marginal so it was worth a shot, turned out great. Four really nice boulders with about 12 great lines. The ground was a little damp so will leave […]

UKClimbing review of Rock Climbing in Ireland

Dominic Green has reviewed Rock Climbing in Ireland for UKClimbing. Read it here. There hasn’t been a general climbing guide covering the island of Ireland as a whole, for nearly thirty years, so this fills an important gap for both the visiting climber and the road-tripping Irish enthusiast.  It does what it sets out to […]

Camaderry Redux

After spending most of the last year doing an impression of a trad climber I felt it was time to get back to the real thing and do some bouldering so I went for a walk up a hill – Camaderry – and looked at some rocks. I have spend a few days up there […]

Bouldering in the Mournes Video

Check out this great video by Rob Hunter (co-author of the Fair Head Bouldering guide) climbing a few of the classic Mourne boulder problems including Cloud Nine 6bish FA Chimney Rock Mountain Huckleberry Huggin 7a stand (sit has been completed at 7bish) FA Binnian North Tor Writer’s Bloc 7c FA Binnian North Tor Felsic Fantasy […]