North York Moors and East Coast Bouldering review

Most Irish climbers won’t have even heard of the North York Moors yet the bouldering there is now documented in ‘North York Moors and East Coast’ by Lee Robinson. The North York Moors are a compact area on the east coast of England, north of Leeds and south of Newcastle with over 2000 problems most […]

Project giveaway #7

The crag in Lough Dan has a very steep, undercut base. And I think it would be possible to traverse the underside of the roof from left to right. Most of this problem would stay pretty dry in the rain. There is one hard crux exiting the roof and crossing the first section of steep […]

Irish Mountain Log review of Rock Climbing in Ireland

The first print review of Rock Climbing in Ireland appears in the winter edition of Irish Mountain Log. Thanks to Sé for the generous review. I must point out that the picture of Carrot Ride that Sé singles out was taken by Richard Creagh but I forgot to caption it.

Historic Bouldering

This quarter’s issue of Irish Mountain Log contains an interesting piece by Barry Dalby of EastWest Mapping about Charles Thompson a mountaineer, teacher and collector of placenames. Among the photos is one of Thompson – or possible a friend – bouldering in Glendalough. It appears that most of Thompson’s climbing was done early in his […]

Safety Second

Ask your Da or Uncle to name a climbing route, not a mountain but a specific route, and I bet you they will think for a minute and offer The North Face of the Eiger. It’s probably the most famous climb in the world. In 1938 a pair of German and a pair of Austrian […]

Project giveaway #6

This one is a little closer to home, and it goes to show that even the most popular venues have hidden – in plain sight – gems to be climbed. So Three Rock, the middle tor, around the right hand side of the wall where it turns right there is a wall, almost like a […]

Project giveaway #5

A photo of this problem appeared in the guide but didn’t give much details of the location. It’s lies above Fraughan Glen on the left side of the valley above the waterfall. It’s an amazing line up the left side of the very steep (maybe 55degrees over) wall. There are holds, beautiful small little dishes […]

Project giveaway #4

This one isn’t that obscure seeing as it appears in Bouldering in Ireland but it’s worth highlighting. The Holiday boulder lie up the valley from the rest of the bouldering in Glendo, about 15 minutes walk past the Fin. There are a few reasonable easy problems but the standout line is the central groove.  Slightly […]

Project giveaway #3

This is a nice, not far off the beaten track but not in an established area either. I found this a good few years ago, I have been back once or twice but not recently. I’m highlighting one problem but there is plenty more to go at here. The problem is a slap to the […]

Thoughts after the Font trip

I’m been home from my trip to Fontainebleau for just over a week now. It’s only in the last few days that I have felt fully recovered. The only lingering effects at this stage are slightly sore wrists and really good skin on my finger tips. We had four full days in Font, the weather […]