Ailladie preliminary route selection

This is the preliminary route selection for Ailladie, I would welcome people’s thoughts on it. Generally quite a hardcore list. Many of the routes are quite close together so it’s easy to document them on relatively few pages. Ground Control Genesis Bonnan Bui Nutrocker Gallows Pole Marchanded Crack Midnight Summer Dream Desolation Row Sunstone Eliminator […]

Gap of Dunloe Meet 2014

So the Gap meet arises out of the ashes. I was keen to go to the meet this year as it would make getting photos and guide information a lot easier. Richard Creagh took up the reigns and liaised with Con. There was plans for Con to give a talk about the history of the […]

Comeraghs preliminary route selection

The following is my first stab at the route selection for the Comeraghs. All the routes below are on the North Facing Cliff in Coushingaun. The list is largely based on suggestions from suggestions made on the Rathformack Climbing Club Facebook page. I’m unsure whether one of the long routes on The Main Face of […]

Free Excerpt from ‘Rock Climbing in Ireland’ – Gap of Dunloe

  I’m releasing a chapter from ‘Rock Climbing in Ireland‘ in advance of the Gap of Dunloe climbing meet that is on next weekend. The chapter is largely finished but I’m looking for feedback from climber’s who use it during the meet. All comments are welcome, good but particularly bad. Layout, descriptions, typos, grades, topos […]

Bouldering and Climbing Shoes

Bouldering in particular doesn’t require a lot of equipment but the most critical item is definitely a pair of climbing shoes. There is a bewildering range of rock climbing shoes on the market, some of which are designed specifically for bouldering. Each claims to be the best fitting and have the stickiest rubber. Most climbers […]

Preliminary selection for the Gap of Dunloe

I have made good progress with the Gap of Dunloe chapter of Rock Climbing in Ireland and hope to make a preliminary version available in advance of the Gap Meet on the 16-18th of May. I need to get some better (sunnier!) topo shots and more consensus on the route selection. To get the ball […]

‘Rock Climbing in Ireland’ progress

Making steady progress on Rock Climbing in Ireland. I have been out a few trips in the last fortnight, I spent a weekend in the Gap and got some great routes done. The Saturday was quite drizzly so we kept close to the road and checked out four of the small crags – Ceim, Bothan, […]

Contrasting movement styles – 3 ascents of Bügeleisen

Bügeleisen 8b+ is a beautiful 45° overhanging wall in Maltatal, Austria. When Klem Loskot did the first ascent in 2001 it was one of the hardest problems in the world and it’s still up there. It has had a few ascents and three have been captured on video so it’s possible to compare the sequences […]

Lough Dan

Seriously considering covering Lough Dan in the guide. Not in too much detail, just four pages with a topo of the best lines. Opinions welcome. Does anyone have any good photos of the climbing there?