‘Rock Climbing in Ireland’ progress

Making steady progress on Rock Climbing in Ireland. I have been out a few trips in the last fortnight, I spent a weekend in the Gap and got some great routes done. The Saturday was quite drizzly so we kept close to the road and checked out four of the small crags – Ceim, Bothan, […]

Contrasting movement styles – 3 ascents of Bügeleisen

Bügeleisen 8b+ is a beautiful 45° overhanging wall in Maltatal, Austria. When Klem Loskot did the first ascent in 2001 it was one of the hardest problems in the world and it’s still up there. It has had a few ascents and three have been captured on video so it’s possible to compare the sequences […]

Lough Dan

Seriously considering covering Lough Dan in the guide. Not in too much detail, just four pages with a topo of the best lines. Opinions welcome. Does anyone have any good photos of the climbing there?

Dynamics – The Art of Flight

    The following is an excerpt from the Dynamics chapter of Bouldering Essentials.  And while books are great and all they aren’t the best way of illustrating complicated movements, so I have added some embedded  videos to accompany the text. When climbing bold traditional routes or soloing the climber must move in a very […]

More information on the new problems in Fair Head

Dan Varian has sent on the details of the new problems he climbed during his recent flying visit to the Head. On the Eat It Block Dan climbed Scranchen * 7C+ish SS in the double undercuts just left of the Leftovers SS and trend leftwards to a sloping shelf and large sidepull, bust a move […]

Dún Séanna Head and Conor Pass

Spend a few days in Dingle, the goal was to check out Dún Séanna. The weather wasn’t ideal with showers, strong wind and massive swell. We climbed a few routes but not the Needle so will have to go back for that. It’s a really nice crag, the Needle looks brilliant – and scary, and […]

New hard problems in Fair Head

According to twitter Dan Varian has climbed a hard new problem in Fair Head. Glenn Ross. New power problem at the head. Mid 8 ish but still pondering that bit. Dan has been in Ireland installing a training board in the newly opened Boulder World Belfast. It seems Dan has been getting out to a […]

Another review of Bouldering Essentials

The Arch Climbing Wall in London have reviewed Bouldering Essentials, read the review here. Coming in at 192 full colour pages and slightly larger than A5, it’s certainly not a lightweight skim through either, treading just the right balance of depth and coverage throughout.   For experienced climbers, some of the text may well feel […]

Preliminary route choices for Glendo

Glendo, the sexy, more popular sibling of the slightly dumpy, overlooked Luggala. South facing, clean, great rock, lots of classic in the mid grades. What’s not to like. Here’s the list, what do you think? Cracks on the Garden of Eden Expectancy Deirdre Quartz Gully Prelude-Nightmare Spéirbhean Scimitar Crack Spillikin Ridge Fanfare Sarcopagus Forest Rhapsody […]

The Habits of Wads

Image by rockrun.com Wads* aren’t like you and me. Well me anyway. They have focus, they get shit done. Think about it, if you can climb 8a then the vast majority of established problems, even in hardcore areas, are warmups for you. It’s inevitable that once you reach a high standard your focus shifts to […]