Dynamics – The Art of Flight

    The following is an excerpt from the Dynamics chapter of Bouldering Essentials.  And while books are great and all they aren’t the best way of illustrating complicated movements, so I have added some embedded  videos to accompany the text. When climbing bold traditional routes or soloing the climber must move in a very […]

More information on the new problems in Fair Head

Dan Varian has sent on the details of the new problems he climbed during his recent flying visit to the Head. On the Eat It Block Dan climbed Scranchen * 7C+ish SS in the double undercuts just left of the Leftovers SS and trend leftwards to a sloping shelf and large sidepull, bust a move […]

Dún Séanna Head and Conor Pass

Spend a few days in Dingle, the goal was to check out Dún Séanna. The weather wasn’t ideal with showers, strong wind and massive swell. We climbed a few routes but not the Needle so will have to go back for that. It’s a really nice crag, the Needle looks brilliant – and scary, and […]

New hard problems in Fair Head

According to twitter Dan Varian has climbed a hard new problem in Fair Head. Glenn Ross. New power problem at the head. Mid 8 ish but still pondering that bit. Dan has been in Ireland installing a training board in the newly opened Boulder World Belfast. It seems Dan has been getting out to a […]

Another review of Bouldering Essentials

The Arch Climbing Wall in London have reviewed Bouldering Essentials, read the review here. Coming in at 192 full colour pages and slightly larger than A5, it’s certainly not a lightweight skim through either, treading just the right balance of depth and coverage throughout.   For experienced climbers, some of the text may well feel […]

Preliminary route choices for Glendo

Glendo, the sexy, more popular sibling of the slightly dumpy, overlooked Luggala. South facing, clean, great rock, lots of classic in the mid grades. What’s not to like. Here’s the list, what do you think? Cracks on the Garden of Eden Expectancy Deirdre Quartz Gully Prelude-Nightmare Spéirbhean Scimitar Crack Spillikin Ridge Fanfare Sarcopagus Forest Rhapsody […]

The Habits of Wads

Image by rockrun.com Wads* aren’t like you and me. Well me anyway. They have focus, they get shit done. Think about it, if you can climb 8a then the vast majority of established problems, even in hardcore areas, are warmups for you. It’s inevitable that once you reach a high standard your focus shifts to […]

Preliminary route choices for Luggala

Luggala is a bit of an enigma, a massive crag, one of the most extensive in Ireland, yet it’s rarely climbed on, especially compared it to its sister crag in Glendo. It has a reputation for dirty, overgrown, run out routes. There is some truth in this but most of the more popular routes are […]

Preliminary route choices for Dalkey Quarry

Here are the routes I have included from Dalkey Quarry. Some many find the number of routes a bit disproportionate but remember the routes are pretty short and close together in the Quarry so it’s possible to get quite a lot done in a short time and also that it’s easy to get quite a […]

Choosing routes for the select guide

Seeing as I’m asking for help choosing the best routes for the select guide I figured that I should try and describe some of the factors that I think are important. To showcase the best climbing a country has to offer and do it justice is a big responsibility and choosing the right routes is […]