Irish Mountain Log review of Bouldering Essentials

Neal McQuaid’s review of Bouldering Essentials appeared in the winter edition of Irish Mountain Log. Review: Bouldering Essentials Following on from the definitive bouldering guidebook to all of Ireland, Dave Flanagan has followed up with the friendly, accessible and well-informed ‘bouldering essentials’. Designed to cater to all, from experienced boulderers to complete novice climbers to […]

Review of Gimme Kraft

This review first appeared in the latest issue of Irish Mountain Log. GIMME KRAFT! Effective climbing training By Patrick Matros, Ludwig Korb & Hannes Huch Published by Cafe Kraft GmbH (2013) Gimme Kraft is a bilingual (German and English) book about training for climbing. As the name will suggest to those with a little German, […]

Marie Rose – the trickiest problem in the world?

Marie Rose is a boulder problem in Bas Cuvier, the most popular area in Fontainebleau. Cuvier has been a forcing ground for bouldering standards through the middle of the last century, it’s home to the first 5+, 6a and 7a, 7b,7c and 8a climbed in Font. Marie Rose was the first 6a, climbed in 1946 […]

Deirdre, Glendalough

Trying to figure out the line of Deirdre the classic VS on the left side of the Main Face in Glendo. This is the description from the wiki, which is the same as the lastest Wicklow guide. “DEIRDRE ** 25m VS (4c,3c) Tackles the left edge of the Main Face right of Expectancy Slab and […]

Cracks on the Garden of Eden, Glendalough

I have been working on the select guide for the last few weeks. I have roughed out a good few pages, maybe 200. Just wanted to get a feel for the layout. It’s easy in the early stages to make great progress and think that it’s all going to be easy but guidebooks are all […]

Castle Hill and the great Vertical Life magazine

Justin Wood on one of the original Flock Hill highballs, Jaws (V8). Image by John Palmer. Taken from When trawling the internet for photos to include in Bouldering Essentials there were two areas that featured frequently in most of the best shots I saw – Bishop in California and Castle Hill in New Zealand. […]

Bouldering in Ireland Second Edition is available now

The second edition of the guide arrived today. Very pleased with it, the printer did a great job, the colour is much brighter and more vibrant than the first edition. The new additions, while not massively significant in bouldering terms,  look good. When I printed the first edition I thought that the second edition would […]

Bouldering in Ireland second edition almost ready to go to print

I’m sending the second edition of Bouldering in Ireland to the printers next week. I have added 32 new pages of content which is mostly details of relatively minor new areas as well as updating the existing sections with any new problems that have been climbed since early 2011. In the first edition I had […]

Spotting at the wall?

I came across this interesting article (PDF) by The Climbing Wall Assocation on Facebook a few days ago, the thrust of which is that spotting indoors mightn’t be a good idea. And I think they have a good point. The primary goal of spotting is to protect the falling climber’s head and neck, it’s not […]