Fair Head preliminary route selection

Fairhead-prow-topo

The Prow

So the biggest and best is left until last. An probably the most decisive as well. Fair Head  is a great crag and it now has a great,  modern guidebook. It’s probably the only Irish crag that attracts visitors who come solely to climb at it rather than to roadtrip around visiting a couple of locations. With over 400 routes, many of which are three stars it’s very hard to pick a short-list. I have focussed on the most accessible and popular areas near the Ballycastle Descent gully. Of course this means missing out on many of the super-classic routes on other parts of the crag, I will note this and maybe mention some of them (feedback on this list welcome)

Here is the list:

Rathlin Wall
Roaring Meg
Cúchulainn
Conchubair
Face Value
Blind Pew
Mizen Star
Titanic
Salango
Equinox
The Wall of Prey
Above and Beyond

I will like to add a few more routes to the Rathlin Wall area and would welcome suggestions…

In the Wall of Prey area I’m going to indicate the lines of the following routes but omit descriptions:

A Bad Skin Day E7
The Big Skin E8
The Rathlin Effect E8
Below the Behold E7
Where the Grass is Green  E7
Once You Go Black You Never Go Back  E7
Taming the Tiger  E6
Way of the Jive Monkeys  E7
Styx E7

Ballycastle Descent Gully East
Hell’s Kitchen
Ocean Boulevard
Aoife
Girona
Chieftain

The Prow
Darkness
Mongrel Fox
Thunderhips
Fireball
Midnight Cruiser
Marconi
The Embankment
Railroad
Fáth Mo Bhuartha
GBH
The Black Thief
The Fence

Posted in Blog.

5 Comments

  1. Here’s my list of “must do” routes from a while back – based on routes I’ve climbed myself either leading or seconding the likes of PK, Martin, Kev, Padraic etc. Its missing a lot of the harder routes and newer routes but thought I’d stick to what I know was popular once upon a time:

    December
    Raglan Road
    Hurricane
    Visual Contact
    Rusty Halo
    The Brasser
    Sandpiper
    Jolly Roger
    Blade Runner
    Track of the Cat
    Burn Up
    Born to Run
    Hallowe’en
    An Bealach Rúnda
    Dark Forces
    Roaring Meg
    Cúchulainn
    The Hustler
    Conchubair
    Blind Pew
    Mizen Star
    Titanic
    Salango
    Equinox
    The Wall of Prey
    Hell’s Kitchen
    Girona
    Chieftain
    Mongrel Fox
    Fireball
    Midnight Cruiser
    Marconi
    The Embankment
    Railroad
    Fáth Mo Bhuartha
    GBH
    The Black Thief
    The Fence

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  3. What about Binnnagapple/Grey Man’s Path Area? Routes like Hurricane, The Brasser, Sandpiper, Jolly Roger etc…

  4. Yes I’ve added all them, it never made sense to leave them out. Not sure what I was thinking?

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