Dan Varian has sent on the details of the new problems he climbed during his recent flying visit to the Head.
On the Eat It Block Dan climbed
Scranchen * 7C+ish
SS in the double undercuts just left of the Leftovers SS and trend leftwards to a sloping shelf and large sidepull, bust a move for the top from here and top out with care.
Dave Jones also did a new problem
Munchies * 6C+
From a SS on the left end of the ramp which Scranchen joins head up and slightly left then back right to a small vertical rib, finish straight up this to an easy finish.
On the Carbide boulder Dan did
Tunnel of Goats 7C+/8A *
Starting from two poor sidepulls at chest height make a hard move to gain the decent sidepull with RH, from here use the awesome sloper to escape rightwards to the arete of the boulder. Sit start will go to this but very hard (harder than the Glenn Ross sit i think).
He also did two problems in The Pit.
The Game of Bones soft 8A+ **
Formerly the Pit Project. Start from standing on the large blocky sidepull. head upwards via some serious crimp boning and a dab of technique.
The Board of Light 7C+ ***
Starting from a crouch on the obvious sickle rail, bump left hand up 2 crimps then head out right to a small incut sidepull and bosh for the top from there.
And finally on the Shelterstone Dan climbed what he describes as “The big daddy power line of Fairhead.”
Glenn Ross Hard 8A+ ***
Starting from RH on a poor hold on the sloper under the mini roof and LH on an obvious sidepull rail, pull on and bosh for a juggy sidepull. From here make some hard and technical moves to get LH on the obvious black edge, get an intermediate then bosh for the top. (due to the fact i climbed this fast my beta for the last move could be wrong, if its the only way of doing the last move however and you’re not lanky this’ll certainly feel half a grade harder). Please check the blocky top of this boulder before attempting it, it was tested with a demo bar prior to the ascent and found to be solid (no movement with ~600kg force on it), should it decide to move ever though it would likely be life ending if it came off. Sit start will go and is one of the best projects I’ve seen at the high 8th grade in the UK.
Dan noted that “As ever these grades are just my best guesses, i’ve gotten a bit stronger this winter off the board and that translates to the head well, however i’ve tried to not get too carried away. No doubt some of the grades’ll be out and i look forward to seeing them get more accurate with repeats.”