Went to Glendo as had spotted some boulders on the hillside W of the crag. They were in the sun while the boulders on the floor of the valley where in the shade all day and I’d say some were quite damp as well. Incredibly mild in the sun. Most of the boulders turned out crap but did one nice problem on some edges with a nasty mantle.
I try to go in hope rather than expectation so wasn’t disappointed. Was tempted by the boulders above the crag but decided to have a look at the Main Face. Started up Prelude but didn’t go far. Was surprised at how polished the rock is. Its not bad but definitely a popular route. Also started by Holly Tree Shunt – I think – but came down as I wasn’t into going all the way and reversing would of been a world of pain.
I did do the sublime Expectancy. Incredible granite jugs with a nice section smearing up the groove. The slab has just come into the sun so it was warm but the rock was freezing, prefect conditions. What a great route.