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Loop Head, Clare – new bouldering area

Richard Creagh on Draíocht 6A/+

Richard Creagh has found some new bouldering on the sandstone boulders of Loop Head in County Clare.

These boulders are just east of George’s Head near Kilkee. Park at the East End near Byrne’s Cove and walk east and down to the obvious platform between George’s Head and Lackglass. There are some easier scrappy bits  and maybe a line left of Ciotóg that I must check out next time.

Meet the President

Meet the President 6B+ SS hugging the bottom of the boulder and make some steep moves up and over.


1. Ciotóg 6B SS in the right of the alcove and move up and left by two left-hand moves.
2. Draíocht 6A/+ SS, or low start if the pool is full, at the bottom of the leaning arête and climb it to the top.

They’re all superb.

Richard Creagh on Pocket Full of Diamonds 6B
Richard Creagh on Pocket Full of Diamonds 6B

Across the bay on the Kilkee Cliff Walk is the Diamond Rocks (go down the steps near the white shelter and scramble west to find the little leaning wall with quartz crystals in the crack on its left end. Pocket Full of Diamonds 6B takes the right end of the wall from a SS with two crystally pockets, and straight to the top. Another cracker.