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New Kerry bouldering – Derrylea


Richard Creagh has climbed a half dozen really nice looking new problems in the mountains of Kerry. The bouders lie very close to the road that runs between the Black Valley and Moll’s Gap in an area called Derrylea. Richard thinks he is the first to climb on them but points on that the boulders are pretty obvious so maybe others have checked them out in the past.

Derrylea North (Google Streetview)

Derrylea North

The boulder on the north side has two low but worthwhile problems.

1. Hollow 6A SS low on the obvious ramp and head towards the prow to top out.
2. Polo 6A Start with L on lower of two jugs (marked), R on a side pull (block is out for feet). Slap to higher jug and top out the prow. A SS a bit further right would be a decent project.

Derrylea South (Google Streetview)

Derrylea South

The block on the south side of the road is taller and better. Climb down the SE arete.

1. Eastern Bloc 5+ Climb the slab on the east face.
2. Ceann Amháin Eile 6B Start on the flat ledge on the left and traverse to the big incut jug and top out.
3. Project  Start in flared hand crack, climb up and left to flat ledge (block on ground is out) and finish up the arete. Landing isn’t great.
4. Eureka  Start in the flared hand crack and head for the big incut jug (block on ground is out). Only 5 as a jump start but an excellent 6B+/6C if you don’t push off from the ground (though I didn’t actually top it out that way.
5. Project Crouch start both hands on the right arete and traverse left along the thin line. Finish up the left arete.
6. Clé Géar 6A Crouch start with both hands on the right arete and head for the top.