Got out early today to beat the rain. Checked out a few problems I tried in May 2010. Still couldn’t do the roof but was very bloody close. Bit annoying really. Ran out of chalk is the official excuse. Tried the slab to the left that I didn’t bother with last time. Absolutely immaculate rough, blank granite. Gradually steepening with a bulge at the top. The very top was wet which didn’t help. I had been wondering recently why we didn’t have any/many good pure smeary slabs, well this is a prime example. There was one hold of sorts a tiny little divot but it wasn’t much use. Just pure smearing. Great. Took about 5 falls on it that involved running down the slap and jumping for the pad. They all went ok but there was potential to bursting. (Pad is around 9 feet below and 9 feet out from your feet at the crux). Will come back to it when it’s dry.
Then drove up to the Wicklow Gap carpark and walked down to a boulder Seamus did some problems on a few years back. There are maybe, 4/5 quality lines on it. Some needed a bit of a clean. The central line took a lot of effort interrupted by rain and hail showers. Finally got it even though the top holds were damp. 6a+ maybe. Be interesting to see what Seamus gave it. I used every trick in the book to get up it. Thumb-cutting. Palm pinches.
|Did a bit of photoshop on this, is it overdone?|
Really enjoyed the battle. As much as I was on my own and had to work it out entirely for myself. Don’t think I would of put as much in (= get as much out) if I had company. Does that make me a prospective serial killer?
Then went and sorted some landing for 2 great looking slab problems but was too wet to try them at that stage.
Got a call from James Gernon who got lost looking for Gullyblock. The shame of it (for me). I can easily imagine crawling through a dense forest guidebook in hand cursing me.
Lots happening at the moment which is great. Must of been that moan I had about the scene. It feels like I (my pals and I) have had the place to ourselves for years, which was cool, but it’s great to see other people getting out there exploring, cleaning and climbing new problems. For year it’s all been about Glendo and I’m glad to see people looking beyond that. Thought to be honest it takes a little getting used to, I definitely have a sense of urgency now, which is good. But there is plenty to go around anyway.
Good day. Lucky with the weather.