The plan was to go into the North Prision so Lee could show me around but we where told “under no circumstances” could that happen. Instead we drove around Lug to Glenmalure. The day which had been looking like rain got warmer and sunnier and stiller. Tried everything on the excellent Ballinafushogue Boulder but were repelled by hot rock and midge. Great boulder, plenty of climbing on it.
We then headed further down the road and scrambled up the north side of the hill to check out a roof we spotted. It turned out very nice. Steep and about 9foot to the first lip. Lee did 2 problems on it. Both with fairly involved topouts. There is an amazing project – similar but much better than Switch in The Scalp – to be done. Crimp, very steep, body tension finished with a slap to the slopey lip (you can see the line it take up the wall beside Lee’s left foot).
There is more to be done up here. This only doing new stuff thing is going pretty well.