Trying to figure out the line of Deirdre the classic VS on the left side of the Main Face in Glendo.
This is the description from the wiki, which is the same as the lastest Wicklow guide.
“DEIRDRE ** 25m VS (4c,3c)
Tackles the left edge of the Main Face right of Expectancy Slab and is clearly visible from below. There are several alternatives but the following is the most popular line.
1. 15m Just right of the foot of the true arête there is an open shallow corner with a thin crack. Climb the arête left of the crack to a good ledge. The exquisite, thin crack above is grappled past the vacant pod to another ledge. Belay in the corner.
2. 10m Continue up the corner crack and then move out left onto the arête to finish.
The original route included a now neglected introductory pitch at 4b which follows a rock rib to a midway ledge and then moves right to regain the groove which is followed to the usual starting belay on the path below the steep wall.
F. Winder, P. Kelly, 7/6/1953.
Variation 15m VS (4b)1a. Climb the steep shallow corner to the right of the arête to a ledge. Move right around a corner using small finger holds and continue up a groove to a good ledge and belay.”
This seems to suggest that the ”normal route’ (yellow line) goes straight up from the first ledge that the variation (red line) steps right around the corner from the ledge. The line in the guide hedges its bets by going somewhere in the middle. Confusingly the 1982 Wicklow guide describes them vice versa.
Does anyone know which is the most common approach (I went around the corner)?