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Glendo – real climbing

Anyone know what route this is? Fanfare maybe.

Climbed on the main crag in Glendo for the first time on Saturday. I had only done a few single pitches on Acorn Buttress prior. Lovely breezy day, warm even in our shirt sleeves. Clancy and I did three routes, all multi starred classics.

Quartz Gully HS
Cracks on the Garden of Eden VS
Deirdre VS

We started QG a little low and I led the first two pitches, Clancy took the last. Crux is cool, lovely exposure, easy for 4b I feel. Plenty of stuck gear as well, like a sport route.

Someone had done a dump below the start of Cracks, Clancy got the first pitch and laybacked up the corner. I used holds on the right which felt a lot easier. I didn’t bother going left to the hand crack at the start of p2 went straight up past the loose flake. Top section is brilliant steep, good handholds all the way but lacking feet in places, I got pumped and had to move out left for a shakeout which was weak, should of just pushed on but I don’t see why I would have any stamina.

Clancy led the hard pitch of Deirdre, I was still pumped and found it tricky seconding. I led the top pitch, very easy, didn’t place any gear due to lack to massive cams.

I’m not sure why a lot of the routes are divided into so many pitches, I understand why this was done back in the day but it doesn’t make any sense to describe them thus now. All three routes we did could of been done in a single pitch with a 60m rope if one was very careful about extending runners.

There was loads of people out bouldering and it was funny to walk down from the crag and slag them. I’ve been on the receiving end many a time. It was great to climb on the crag, the rock is incredible and it’s such a great setting.