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New(ish) Area – Wicklow Coast

Over the summer I’ve been climbing a good bit on the cliffs south of Wicklow Town. The cliffs stretch from just south of the Town past the lighthouse to Brittas Bay. The rock is schist I think and varies from very nice smooth rock at the bottom of the coves to horrible sharp choss at the top of the cliffs.

The area is similar in style to Portrane but not as extensive. At the moment anyway.

Its tidal and prone to seepage so it can be hard to predict when it is in very dry condition.

I’m definitely not the first to climb here but the bouldering has never been documented before. The guide contains about 40 problems a lot of which haven’t yet been climbed – as far as I know, this is a bit unusual, normally areas only get documented when they are climbed out. But rather than keep it secret until I had climbed everything I could – which could take years – I thought it would be better to put it out there so anyone could fill in the gaps. The summer is the season for bouldering and it’s nearly over so if I left it much later it would be no good to anyone til next year.

All I ask is that people let me know if they do new stuff so I can keep the guide up to date.

Download it here

Three Rock Books